Fort Lee, New Jersey

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Fort Lee is a borough in Bergen County, New Jersey, situated on the western face of the Palisades cliffs along the Hudson River, directly across from upper Manhattan. It is part of the New York metropolitan area and has served, across different centuries, as a Revolutionary War fortification, a pioneering center of the American commercial film industry, and a densely settled commuter community. According to the 2020 United States Census, Fort Lee had a population of 37,067.[1] The borough covers 2.47 square miles and sits at the eastern terminus of the George Washington Bridge, a position that has shaped its economy, its traffic patterns, and its commercial character over the past century. Fort Lee was incorporated as a borough in 1904, carved out of what had been Ridgefield Township, though the area's name dates to the Revolutionary War fortification established there in 1776.[2]

History

Colonial and Revolutionary War Era

Fort Lee's earliest European settlement dates to the period of Dutch colonization, when the area fell within the territory of New Netherland. After the English seized the colony in 1664, the region became part of the Province of New Jersey under British administration. It was the American Revolutionary War, however, that gave the place its name and its lasting historical significance.

In the autumn of 1776, George Washington ordered the construction of a fortification on the Palisades overlooking the Hudson River, positioned to work in concert with Fort Washington on the Manhattan side. The fort was named in honor of General Charles Lee, one of Washington's senior commanders, and was intended to prevent British naval vessels from moving freely up the river. That plan failed. After British forces stormed Fort Washington on November 16, 1776, taking nearly 2,800 American prisoners in one of the most devastating defeats of the early war, Fort Lee became untenable almost immediately.[3] On November 20, General Charles Cornwallis led approximately 5,000 British troops across the Hudson to the north of Fort Lee. Washington's forces, significantly outnumbered, abandoned the position with such speed that they left behind cannons, tents, and supplies. The British occupied the fort briefly before moving on.

The site was not the scene of a pitched battle but rather a hasty American withdrawal that sent Washington retreating across New Jersey toward the Delaware River. That retreat, desperate and poorly provisioned, became part of the broader narrative of revolutionary resilience that Thomas Paine captured in The American Crisis, written during that same difficult winter of 1776–1777. The strategic importance of the Palisades position, commanding as it did a long stretch of the Hudson, ensured that the site remained part of American military memory long after the war ended. The National Register of Historic Places later recognized Fort Lee Historic Park, which occupies the approximate site of the original fortification, for its significance to the Revolutionary War period.[4]

19th-Century Development

The community that grew up near the old fort site developed slowly through the 19th century as a small, largely rural settlement perched on the Palisades. The Hudson River formed its eastern boundary, and the cliffs made direct access to the water difficult. Ferries connecting New Jersey to Manhattan operated from nearby landings, and the area developed a modest hospitality trade catering to day-trippers from the city who came to walk the cliffs and take in the views. Bergen County's interior, connected to New York City by the ferry crossings and, from 1839, by the New Jersey Railroad, grew more rapidly than the Palisades communities, which remained relatively isolated by the cliff topography.

Fort Lee was formally incorporated as a borough in 1904, separated from Ridgefield Township under New Jersey's general borough incorporation laws.[5] The Hudson and Manhattan Railroad, which opened its tunnels under the Hudson in 1908, made commuting to lower Manhattan far more practical for Bergen County residents and contributed to gradual residential growth in the borough's early 20th-century decades.[6] For most of the 19th century, however, the borough's future identity as an urban commuter community remained far in the future.

The Film Industry Era

Fort Lee's most distinctive historical chapter is its role as the pioneering center of the American commercial film industry. Between roughly 1907 and 1920, the borough was the leading center of film production in the United States, earning it the enduring designation as the birthplace of American film. Studios clustered there for a convergence of practical reasons: the Palisades offered dramatic natural backdrops unavailable in the flat urban streetscapes of Manhattan; the proximity to New York City allowed easy access to theatrical talent from Broadway and the vaudeville circuits; the open land north and west of the borough provided space for exterior shooting; and New Jersey's legal environment gave producers some operational distance from the aggressive enforcement tactics of Thomas Edison's Motion Picture Patents Company, which sought through patent litigation to monopolize the nascent industry.[7]

The studios operating in Fort Lee during this period formed the nucleus of what would become the American studio system. Champion Film Company established operations in the borough as early as 1907. The Éclair Film Company, a French firm that opened an American production branch, built a substantial studio in Fort Lee around 1911. World Film Corporation used Fort Lee as a primary production base in the mid-1910s. Production units associated with what would become Paramount Pictures were active in the borough, and Fox Film Corporation shot extensively in and around the Palisades. Hundreds of films were produced in Fort Lee during this period, many of them now lost.[8]

Some of the early industry's most significant figures worked in Fort Lee. Director Alice Guy-Blaché, one of the first women to direct and produce films commercially anywhere in the world, operated her Solax Studios in Fort Lee from 1910 until 1914. Under her leadership, Solax was one of the largest film production companies in the United States during those years, producing hundreds of short films and early features.[9] The director D.W. Griffith used the Palisades as a location for several early productions, and major stars of the silent era appeared in films made along the cliffs and in the borough's studios.

The industry's center of gravity shifted decisively to Hollywood by the early 1920s, driven by Southern California's more reliable year-round weather for outdoor shooting, cheaper and more abundant land, and the consolidation of the major studios under the control of financiers who preferred the West Coast. Fort Lee's film era ended abruptly. What remained was the memory, a handful of surviving studio buildings incorporated into later commercial uses, and a cultural legacy the borough has worked to document and preserve through the Fort Lee Film Commission and annual commemorative events. The Fort Lee Film Commission maintains records of the productions made in the borough and has worked with historians and archivists to recover and preserve surviving prints of films made there.[10]

20th Century to the Present

The opening of the George Washington Bridge on October 25, 1931, transformed Fort Lee more profoundly than any development since the Revolutionary War. The bridge, connecting the borough directly to upper Manhattan via a span that was, at the time of its opening, the longest suspension bridge in the world, brought an immediate surge of residential construction and commercial development along the Palisades ridge.[11] Population grew substantially through the postwar decades as the borough became one of Bergen County's more urbanized communities. High-rise apartment buildings replaced much of the earlier low-rise residential stock along the cliff line, and Fort Lee developed the dense, vertically oriented residential character that distinguishes it from most Bergen County municipalities.

The borough's Korean-American community began growing significantly in the 1980s and 1990s, as Korean immigrants who had initially settled in Queens and other New York City neighborhoods moved to Bergen County in search of larger housing, better schools, and suburban amenities while maintaining proximity to the city. Fort Lee today has one of the highest concentrations of Korean-American residents of any municipality in New Jersey, and Korean-owned businesses dominate substantial stretches of Main Street and its surrounding commercial corridors.[12] The borough also has historically significant Japanese-American and Chinese-American communities, and the mix of Asian-American residents from multiple national backgrounds gives Fort Lee a demographic and commercial character quite different from most New Jersey suburbs of similar size.

Geography

Fort Lee occupies 2.47 square miles on the eastern edge of Bergen County, bounded by the Hudson River to the east and by the municipalities of Edgewater to the south, Leonia and Englewood Cliffs to the west, and Palisades Park to the north. The borough sits atop and along the face of the Palisades, the dramatic basalt cliffs that line the western bank of the Hudson River for roughly 20 miles between Edgewater and the New York state line.

The Palisades are a remnant of the Palisades Sill, a sheet of diabase rock intruded between layers of sedimentary stone during the Triassic period, approximately 200 million years ago. Erosion over millions of years exposed the cliff face. The geological formation rises to roughly 300 feet above the river at its highest points within the borough, giving Fort Lee some of its most recognizable topography and, historically, its military and visual significance. The Hudson River itself, which flows along the borough's eastern edge, is a tidal estuary at this latitude, affected by ocean tides as far north as Troy, New York.

Fort Lee's location at the eastern terminus of Interstate 95, which crosses the Hudson via the George Washington Bridge, places it at one of the busiest highway junctions in the United States. The Palisades Interstate Parkway begins at the bridge's New Jersey approach and heads north through the Palisades park land into Rockland County, New York. This convergence of major roads has made traffic a persistent feature of daily life in the borough, particularly in the blocks surrounding the bridge's approach roads, where local streets absorb overflow from the highway interchanges during peak hours.

Demographics

According to the 2020 United States Census, Fort Lee had a total population of 37,067, making it one of the more densely populated municipalities in Bergen County given its 2.47-square-mile area.[13] The borough's population is notably diverse, with a substantial Asian-American majority that distinguishes it from most other New Jersey communities of comparable size.

The Korean-American community represents the largest single ethnic group in Fort Lee. Beginning in the 1980s, Korean immigrants drawn by the borough's proximity to Manhattan, its established Korean-language commercial infrastructure, and its reputation for strong public schools settled in Fort Lee in substantial numbers. By the 2010s, Korean-Americans and Korean nationals residing on various visa statuses constituted a significant plurality of the borough's population, and Korean-language signage, restaurants, grocery stores, and service businesses had transformed the Main Street commercial corridor into one of the most recognizable Korean-American commercial districts in New Jersey.[14] The borough has also long been home to Japanese-American and Japanese national residents, many of them connected to corporations with offices in the New York metropolitan area, and a significant Chinese-American population has grown in recent decades. The density and variety of Asian-language businesses, cultural institutions, and community organizations in Fort Lee reflect decades of community-building by immigrant families who settled there starting in the 1970s.

Fort Lee's population includes a substantial proportion of residents born outside the United States, and the borough's schools and public library system serve a multilingual community that navigates services in English, Korean, Japanese, Chinese, and Spanish, among other languages. The borough's relatively high-rise residential character, with numerous apartment towers along the Palisades ridge, supports a population density that more closely resembles an urban neighborhood than a typical New Jersey suburb.

Government and Politics

Fort Lee operates under the borough form of New Jersey municipal government. The borough council consists of six members elected to three-year terms, with two seats up for election each year on a rotating basis. The mayor is elected separately to a four-year term. Mark Sokolich, a Democrat, has served as mayor since 2008, winning multiple re-election campaigns and becoming one of the longer-serving mayors in Bergen County.[15] The borough council and mayor's office jointly oversee municipal departments including public works, the police department, the municipal court, and parks and recreation.

Fort Lee gained unwanted national attention in September 2013 when it became central to the George Washington Bridge lane closure scandal, commonly known as "Bridgegate." Political operatives tied to then-Governor Chris Christie's administration ordered the closure of access lanes to the George Washington Bridge, causing severe traffic gridlock in Fort Lee for several days during the morning rush hour. The closures, which officials in the governor's office falsely attributed to a traffic study, were later established to have been politically motivated — an act of retribution against Mayor Sokolich, a Democrat who had declined to endorse Christie's re-election campaign. The episode drew significant federal scrutiny and led to the criminal convictions of two Christie administration officials, Bridget Anne Kelly and Bill Baroni, though

  1. "Fort Lee borough, Bergen County, New Jersey", U.S. Census Bureau, 2020 Decennial Census.
  2. New Jersey State Archives, Acts of the New Jersey Legislature, 1904.
  3. Stryker, William S. The Battles of Trenton and Princeton. Houghton Mifflin, 1898.
  4. "Fort Lee Historic Park", New Jersey Department of Environmental Protection, accessed 2024.
  5. New Jersey State Archives, Acts of the New Jersey Legislature, 1904.
  6. "About PATH", Port Authority of New York and New Jersey, accessed 2024.
  7. Koszarski, Richard. Fort Lee: The Film Town. John Libbey Publishing, 2004.
  8. Koszarski, Richard. Fort Lee: The Film Town. John Libbey Publishing, 2004.
  9. Koszarski, Richard. Fort Lee: The Film Town. John Libbey Publishing, 2004.
  10. Koszarski, Richard. Fort Lee: The Film Town. John Libbey Publishing, 2004.
  11. "George Washington Bridge", Port Authority of New York and New Jersey, accessed 2024.
  12. "Fort Lee's Main Street becomes a Koreatown", NJ Advance Media, March 2013.
  13. "Fort Lee borough, Bergen County, New Jersey", U.S. Census Bureau, 2020 Decennial Census.
  14. "Fort Lee's Main Street becomes a Koreatown", NJ Advance Media, March 2013.
  15. "Mayor's Office", Borough of Fort Lee, accessed 2024.